In order to keep our prices as low as possible, we prefer to quote you a price right over the phone. This saves us the time and expense of making a trip out to do an estimate, so we only show up one time to complete the work. The efficiency of this business model allows us to pass considerable savings on to you. In order for this to work well we need to get accurate information and a measure about the size of the stump(s), accessibility, and location.
What we need from you:
1) An accurate count of the number of stumps and their locations on your property. If there are some stumps that are getting removed and others that are not, its always best to mark and count the stumps that are getting done. Stumps can be marked with marking paint, tape or cones. When there are a large number of stumps, and exact count is helpful. If the count is off, we are likely to either leave without doing all the stumps or waste time looking for stumps that are not there.
2) The size of the stump(s). The larger the stump the more important it is to get an accurate measurement.
We need several measurements.
- A) First, measure the diameter of the stump at widest point of the cut. This is the top of the stump, where the chainsaw was used to remove the tree.
- B) Then measure the diameter of widest point where the root flare touches the ground. Large trees most often will have a significant flare at the base, so the diameter of the trunk flare will often be much greater than diameter at the cut.
- C) The height of the stump is most often just a few inches. If it is over 12”, measure it and let us know.
- D) Also let us know if there are any significant surface roots, also called finder roots. These are roots that extend beyond the trunk flare, into the surrounding lawn or landscape. Generally stumps that have a trunk flare (the B measurement) of 16” or less do not need to be measured with a tape. Just give us a good estimate of their size (i.e. under 6”, 6”, 1’, or just over 1’).
- E) If the stump is an uplifted root plate, measure the highest point of the dirt, and let us know if the plate is considerably wider than it is high.
3) The species of tree, if you know it. This is important because certain species, such as maple, sweet gum, and Bradford pear often have an extremely large sub-surface root flare, so the entire area around the stump that is pushed up above grade will need to be ground. Also certain species of softwoods are much easier to grind than hardwoods. The larger the stump, the more important species identification is.
4) Access. Our equipment can move through a 36” gate, but that requires taking some time to remove and replace the outer wheels. Gates over 52” (4.5’) do not require us to take the outer wheels off our grinder. So let us know if there is a tight gate, or any other issues with access, such as steep grades, retaining walls, or limited access because of sensitive hardscapes such as flagstone walks or interfering trees and shrubs. Also let us know if the stump is in an open location or close to a building, sidewalk, deck ir other structure.
5) How deep would you like the stump ground. This will depend on what you plan for the area: Generally if grass is planted in the stump area, we will grind to an average depth of 4-6” below grade. Grade is not where the trunk flare hits the ground, as that areas is often raised slighty above grade. If the area is to be left wild or mulched we will often grind just below grade. However if the area is to be paved or planted with a new tree, it is often best to completely remove the stump. Smaller stumps do not grow very deep and are easy to remove completely. Bigger stumps often require considerable more work to remove grind out completely or to a depth below 4-6″.
